La Chandeleur - Let's Enjoy Crepes!

A French Holiday on February 2nd!

French Lessons

For the last sixteen months, I’ve been studying French via Skype. My French teacher lives in the south of France. She teaches for Verbal Planet, and online language school. Each week we meet for about an hour, talking about the past week, the current week, and anything interesting coming up. Then we review my lesson’s homework, and plan for the following week. Pascale, my teacher is great. She loves cinema, food, and is very interested in the world of pastry. It’s so fun to discuss traditional recipes and customs with her.

During the Christmas season, she shared several customs unique to the Provence. I was especially interested in the Provence Brioche des Rois. Rather than the traditional Galette des Rois made with puff pastry and almond paste/frangipane, the custom is to make a crown shaped brioche decorated with dried fruits and apricot glaze (nappage). This year on January 6th, I made the Provence version which was from a recipe Pascale had shared from her family.

La Chandeleur

A few weeks ago, we were discussing crepes and she mentioned I must really like Fête Chandeleur. I told her a had never heard of it. She explained it a crêpe holiday! Here’s the history.

La Chandeleur is a popular holiday in France. It is celebrated on February 2nd, 40 days after Christmas. The day that Jesus was presented to the temple of Jerusalem, 40 days after his birth.

History says, in the 5th century, Pope Gelasius offered crepes to pilgrims as a reward for coming to Rome to celebrate. It was also a way to use reserved excess wheat stores.

Even earlier, the pagen Candlelight Festival was celebrated with candles and torches where people celebrated the fertility of the land regained by the disappearance of the cold winter.

Why Crepes? (or Pancakes?)

The shape and color of the crepe symbolizes the sun and the return of Spring.

In preparation for La Chandeleur, I present my favorite crepe reicpe. I took the plunge and picked up a crepe maker with a flat surface and wooden turned/twister. You can use a small nonstick pan or a griddle.

I’ll add a link for buckwheat flour (Farine de Sarassin). Buckwheat is used for savory crepes. I use all purpose flour or Cup4Cup for sweet crepes.

I’ll link some the equipment for you:

Crepe Maker Crepe Spreader and Spatula

Buckwheat Flour (Yummly Bazaar is a great online shop!)

This recipe is perfect.  The crepes are beautiful.  Crispy edges, no spongy middle, and a fantastic taste.  The best part is you are able to prepare the batter and use it immediately rather than needing to wait for two or more hours for the batter to settle and develop.

If you celebrate Chandeleur, Buckwheat (of Sarassin) are the most traditional crepes for Chadeleur. Buckwheat is not wheat, and may be more easily tolerated by those with gluten intolerance.

crepe on plate

crepe maker

Crepes Batter (Sweet Crepes)

Ingredients:

1 1/2 cups milk (1-2 T more to thin batter if using Cup4Cup)

3 egg yolks

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

1  1/2 cups all-purpose flour or Cup4Cup

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

5 tablespoons melted butter

Favorite fillings such as Nutells, chocolate, fruit, whipped cream

Instructions:

1. In a blender, add together (in this order) the milk, egg yolks and vanilla, flour, sugar, salt and melted butter.   Whirl in the blender for about 30 seconds, until smooth, stopping to scape the sides.

2. Heat a crepe pan or griddle/crepe maker  over medium heat, until hot. Coat with vegetable oil or cooking spray. Pour about 1/4-1/3  cup of batter into the pan and tip or spread to move the batter to the edges in a thin layer.   When bubbles form on the top and the edges are dry, flip over and cook until lightly browned on the other side and edges are golden. Repeat with remaining batter.

3. Before folding, spread the crepe with Nutella or make it savory with ham, cheese, chives...  the options are endless!

Crêpes au Sarrassin

• 1 cup buckwheat flour

• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour

• 3/4 cup milk

• 3/4 cup water

• 2 eggs

• 1 tablespoon oil

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• butter to cook the crepes

• Filling such as shredded cheese (Guryere or Comte), Ham, even egg. Salad/ Arugula mix for garnish

Whisk all of the ingredients together to make a smooth batter. Allow the batter to sit in the refrigerator several hours or overnight before cooking. I like to let the buckwheat rest to become tender.

After the rest, you may need to add more milk. The batter should be pourable, but not runny.

To prepare, heat a non-stick skillet or crepe pan on medium heat until hot. Using a paper towel coat the bottom of the pan with a bit of butter. Pour in a scant 1/4 cup of batter (for about 9 inch crepes) and tilt and turn the pan to spread the batter evenly. Once the top of the crepe is just cooked, use a spatula to gently turn it and cook for 15 more seconds. You may have to adjust your heat to get the crepes just right - they should be lightly browned on both sides.

If you’re ready to eat the crepes, add filling - not too much-, and fold. A savory crepe is usually folded in from each side to make a square, with part of the center showing. Garnish with simple topping of salad or arugula.

As you cook each crepe, stack and wrap them in a clean tea towel. This will keep them warm. Or you can rewarm them by wrapping in aluminum foil and warming in the oven at about 200 degrees F.

Makes about 10 crepes. Adapted (from Easy French Food)

Bon fête!

Susan

Dacquoise au Cafe (Almond Merengue with Coffee Butter Cream)

Dacquoise du Cafe

Every year about this time I get a little sentimental.  Perhaps more than a little.  Fifteen years ago I arrived in Paris ready to begin a journey that changed my life.   There's something about the sights and smells of late summer that trigger the memories of walking to the Metro each morning, with excited and nervous butterflies in my stomach.  What amazing technique and pastry were we going to learn?  Would I be able to understand the Chef?  And, could I get through the day blunder free?

The day we made this pastry in class, it was an evening kitchen session.  Our main chef had gone for the day and we had another chef, from another school guest teaching the class.   I sound like a broken record, but once again he was very handsome and had even better cologne than the pastry cream chef.  To top is off, he wasn't wearing the usual navy blue houndstooth checked pants.  His pants were  navy blue pin striped.  Kim and I secretly called him Fancy Pants.  He was very nice, and very helpful.  (Can you see the crush coming?).

Our class gathered our ingredients and proficiently made the dacquoise without fail.  Then came the cream de beurre, or buttercream.   Since we didn't use mixers, we needed to bring the sugar and water to the soft ball stage, and somehow pour it over the egg yolks waiting in the bowl at our work station, a distance of about seven feet.

The chef, Kim and I had been chatting (in our best caveman French),trying to be welcoming to our guest.  While I was bringing my sugar to temp, he walked over  to make sure the next step was successful.   I remembered earlier in the day that our Chef had shown us a way to measure the sugar stage by  dipping  a flat sieve/skimmer into the sugar and blowing into it.  If you can make bubbles, out the back, your sugar is at temp.  Amazing.  I asked our evening Chef about it, and he said "Oui!"  So I gave it a try, and to my amazement, it worked.   Now I had sugar at the soft ball stage ready to pour it on the yolks.  The chef stood beside me... and I froze.   "Je poulet, Chef", I said.   I wish I could show you the look on his face.  Just think about the look a dog gets when you talk to them and they tip their head to the side.  Happy, but completely confused.  "Poulet?", he said.   My friends across the room roared with laughter.  I was trying to tell him I was chicken.  Guess what?  That means nothing in French.  One of my French speaking classmates came to my rescue and explained to the Chef that I was afraid to pour the sugar.   He smiled and chuckled.  I poured the sugar, and began whisking the mixture until it cooled and then added the butter.  The buttercream was quite possibly the best thing I had ever tasted.  Smooth and rich with the hint of coffee.  And best of all, I had just made it.

While we were working the Chef demonstrated how to make marzipan roses using the back of a tablespoon.  In addition, he made a few small animals, often seen in patisserie cases.

We assembled our desserts and presented them to the Chef for grading.  As we were boxing our dessert and preparing for the Metro ride back to the hotel, the Chef walked up beside me, and with the biggest smile, set a little marzipan chicken of the workstation.  "You are my favorite Chicken", he said. "Merci, Chef", I replied and I'm sure blushed six shades of red.  I still teach students how to make roses, dacquoise and buttercream. And best of all, when Kim and I are together we often reminisce about Fancy Pants.

I've been wanting to share this recipe with you for a long time.  It's an incredible dessert.  It's pure classic French pastry.  Simple ingredients combined together to make compenents.  Combined together, you won't believe how elegant yet understated it tastes.

Dacquoise is a nut based merengue sponge cake, which make it naturally gluten-free if that's important for you.  You can use all almonds, hazelnuts or a mixture.  The key is to make great egg whites.

Start with almond flour, sugar, a dash of salt, a dash of cream of tartar and eggs whites.

Before and After Baking Dacquoise

For the very best merengue, start with eggs whites at room temperature or just a bit above.  Start whipping them slowly, then gradually increase the speed.  Once they reach soft peaks, add the sugar all at once and increase the mixer speed (or find a new set of arms if you're whisking by hand), and whisk until the peaks are firm and shiny.

Fold in the nut mixture, then spread in a ring, or a springform pan ring.  If you don't have either one, just draw two 10 inch circles on a piece of parchment paper.

Dacquoise just removed from the rings

I highly suggest waiting until the dacquoise is cool before starting the buttecream. That way, there's no chance you'll be tempted to pipe the buttercream on warm cake.

Pipe one layer with rosettes of butter cream

Dacquoise just before adding a dusting of Powdered Sugar

Be sure your butter is at room temperature.   Heat the sugar and water in a saucepan to 238 degrees F, or 118 degrees C.  Pour the hot sugar over the whisked egg yolks and whisk until lightened and cool.  Then start whisking in the butter bit by bit.  This is much easier with an mixer, but it can definitely be done by hand with a whisk.  You may need a helper to hold the bowl while you whisk in the hot sugar so your bowl doesn't scoot away.

To finish the dessert, use a thin knife with the blade pointed toward the edge of the pan, and carefully cut the cake away from the edge.  Place on a plate, and pipe several rosettes of buttercream.  Be sure to pipe a ring of rosettes near the edge.  Set the next layer on top and garnish with more rosettes of buttercream.   If you have some chocolate coffee beans, or nuts, add one to each rosette.

Dacquoise Cafe

Serve immediately, or chill and serve.

I hope you'll give this recipe a try.  If you've never had real French buttercream, you're in for a treat!

To print this recipe, click HERE

Dacquoise

Makes two 10 inch circles

8 egg whites plus 80 gm granulated sugar (6 1/2 TBSP) -to make merengue at the end of whipping

140 gm (1 2/3 cups) almond and/or hazelnut flour

60 gm all-purpose flour (2/3 cup)  OMIT IF MAKING GLUTEN FREE, and substitute  almond flour

1 dash salt

1 dash cream of tartar

100 gm (3/4 cup) powdered sugar

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.  Line baking sheet with parchment paper.  Bring the egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt to soft peaks.  Add the sugar and increase speed until firm, and glossy peaks.  Fold in the nut flour.  Spread in the rings, or spread in the circle, about 1/2 - 3/4 inch thick.  Bake for 30 minutes, until golden brown. The dacquoise will rise and then settle back into the ring.  Cool completely. Peel off the parchment paper, and carefully remove from the rings.

For the Buttercream:

4 egg yolks, from large sized eggs

200 gm butter (14 tablespoons), at room temperature

230 gm water (just less than 1 cup)

170 grams confectioners' sugar (1 1/3 cups)

In a mixing bowl or the bowl of a standing mixer, have the egg yolks ready.  Be sure the butter is at room temperature.Have In a small saucepan, place the water, then the sugar and heat to 238 degrees F.  Use a candy thermometer to check the temperature.

When the sugar/water reach soft ball stage, slowly pour it over yolks, whisking continuously.  Continue whisking by hand or with the whisk of the mixer, until the mixture is cool.  If you feel the bottom of the bowl, you'll feel that the mixture is cool.

Add the butter one to two tablespoons at a time, incorporating well after each addition.  If the mixture breaks, keep mixing.  It will come back together.  Add the coffee extract to taste.  The buttercream should be a rich coffee color, with a nice coffee taste.

French Coffee Extract (Essence de Cafe)

200 gm granulated cane sugar (1 cup)

200 gm water (7 oz)

100 gm instant coffee (1/4 pound or 1 7/8 cup)  Nescafe is best

Dissolve the instant coffee in the water and bring to a boil.  In another  saucepan,add the sugar and heat to cook until very dark caramel color (very dark amber).  Stop the caramel by adding the hot coffee.  The mixture will bubble, spit and sputter.  Be very careful to protect your hands and fingers.  Add the coffee slowly, and stir lightly to dissolve any hard caramel bits.  Strain the mixture and cool.  Pour into bottles, and store in refrigerator.

Strawberry Rhubarb Coffee Cake - Gluten Free!

I have a special recipe for you.   It's a gluten free coffee cake.  Can you believe it?   I generally don't seek out or try GF recipes, but I've been interested in new options for GF guests, and this one hits the jackpot.   For those of you who have been turned off by, or don't need gluten free options, please don't pass this one by.   It's really, really good and you'll never know that it's made without flour.   I've made it with strawberry/rhubarb and just strawberries.   I think you could easily toss in blueberries or other fruits more options. 

To print this recipe, click HERE

Strawberry Rhubarb Coffee Cake

Ingredients

For the Topping

8 T unsalted butter, or heart healthy butter-like stick

1 cup all-purpose gluten free flour.   (Bob's Red Mill AP version is great!)

1/2 tsp xanthan gum

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup packed light brown sugar

1/8 tsp salt

For the Batter

3-4 stalks fresh rhubarb, cut into tiny 1/4 inch pieces

1-2 cups fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced

1  1/4 cup all purpose gluten free flour

1/2 tsp xanthan gum

3/4 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp baking soda

1/4 tsp salt

3/4 cup granulated sugar

2 T butter - room temperature

4 T shortening

6 T  plain Greek yogurt

3 large eggs, or equivalent of egg substitute

1/2 tsp vanilla extract

Instructions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.  Grease and flour an 8 inch cake pan.  (round or square).  Line the bottom with parchment paper. 

Combine the topping ingredients and blend with a fork until just combined.  Place in refrigerator until needed.

For the cake batter, in a small bowl,  combine the fruits with the brown sugar, and 1/4 cup flour, stir and set aside.

In another bowl, mix the remaining flour, xanthan gum, baking powder, soda, salt and 3/4 cup granulated sugar.  By hand or with a mixer (paddle attachment for Kitchen aid)  add the butter, shortening, yogurt and mix.  Add the eggs, one at a time and mix after each addition.  Add vanilla, then fold in the fruit.  The batter will be thick.   Mix just until combined.

Scrape batter into the pan, smooth, and bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes.   After the cake has been baking about 20 minutes, remove the topping from the refrigerator, and toss/fluff with a fork to create the crumbles.  

Remove the cake from the oven, sprinkle on the topping, and return to the oven for another 20-30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted comes out clean or with just a few crumbs.  Remove from the oven and cool completely, carefully turn out of pan and remove parchment.   Then return to plate or pedestal.   Slice into squares or wedges.    Serves 8-10

Enjoy!  

Adapted from Gluten Free on a Shoestring